The Truth of Spot The Difference

In January I began a memoir writing course, it has dwarfed my expectations. Each of my talented, compassionate classmates is gestating a towering story, in some cases stories, and we lucked out with our tutor, the inspirational Gillian Slovo.

It’s been the best of learning experiences, and has yoga-flexed my mind. The toughest posture to bend my head round has involved Truth. The naïve literalist in me was inflexibly rigid with a preconception, that memoir is the truth, and nothing but the nitty-gritty truth, accurate down to the minutest pinhead detail. After all, memoirs sit on non-fiction shelves, right?

It freaked me out that it’s legitimate to manipulate Truth with Photoshop alacrity, that you can fictionalize Truth to texturize its impact: If the light and sky was dull when a life-changing meeting occurred, it can be brightened, or if you know a conversation took place but cannot remember the wording, make it up.

After resuscitation, I was blue-lighted to another hospital. I feel a blast of chilly air, and a window of cloudless blue sky passes overhead as I’m wheeled from the ambulance …”  It irks me that someone might think I painted in that sky.

Perhaps this aversion to Truth tweaking is linked to my photographic habits, that I tend not to open Photoshop or make invasive changes to a picture. This is partly because if I photograph something, I like to show how it is, not how it isn’t, and partly because I am Photoshop inept, the digital darkroom is a different art medium for which I have zero ability.

But the course has revealed my assumption to be riddled with holes. Embarrassingly so. It’s been demonstrated for example, that places seen through childhood eyes have often shrunk when revisited with our adult lenses, but it does not alter the bigger Truth of that childhood recollection. And I’ve been thinking about painting, of Hockney’s purple roads winding through East Yorkshire, and of The Impressionists. Emotional truth is ripe with the implications of colour, subjectivity and perspective; it’s a chameleon.

And what about train journeys or queues when I Snapseed away the time, arting up images on my phone?

Gillian gave us an exercise, to find a landscape and write notes, en plein air. Hockney would’ve approved. Fortuitously, I was able to do my homework on a recent trip to France. Along with a notebook, I had my camera:

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When I wrote up the notes, I decided to apply my newly flexible Truth muscles. You can play Spot The Differences:

A walk

I stop mid-way down the hill to take off my jumper. Sunscreen hadn’t occurred to me; my forehead’s ablaze. It’s only the first week of March yet the sky is a deep summer blue; forget-me-nots look watery in comparison.

There’s a solitary cloud, a perfect comma, its tail tickles a tree on the horizon. Designer-stubble cornfields merge into fields combed through with budding crops, they’re not hemmed in by English hedges, the landscape just rolls on and on. Stereo birdsong in every direction, kyow kyow, each tree a sound system, playing New Life up high.

A breeze stokes green flames, flickering grass rustles and crackles.

This landscape is oxygen; my mind a lung, it inflates with wellbeing.

At the bottom of the hill I branch right, a stream chatters alongside the lane.

A Buzzard hovers overhead in the big blue, like a circling Great White.

Low persistent hum, louder and louder, a drone. Bees. Where? I stop.

Above, I see inky vascularity of leafless Poplars, arachnid branched and silhouetted against the sky.

There’s a veil of Pussy Willow, flowers have burst through silky catkin cocoons into a red and yellow gauze. Now I see them: crowds of stamen, nobbled with grains of pollen, proffering themselves to a frenzied mob. Their fix has sent the bees crazy, like shoppers on the first day of the Sales; no carrier bags, but their legs are laden, coated with layers and layers of the precious yellow dust.

A narrow, slab-ugly bridge rips into this Chinese ink wash.

“Hey! Heavy-handed construction for a gentle brook, donchya think?” I say accusingly to the absent culprit, trainers scuffing the concrete.

I cross over into a field occupied by a regiment of Poplars. They’re youthful and lanky, smartly planted, uniformly distanced from one another, bar four trees that have accommodated a cabane, clearly built before this plantation. Looking at it now, it’s hard to imagine it had ever been a shelter of any kind, or even built, perhaps assembled would be more accurate. From the lane it was obvious that the facing wall was missing; my imagination had soared down and devoured this tasty morsel – like the still circling buzzard might have done- it was definitely a prime location for The Killing, perhaps harbouring a grizzled corpse. So, it isn’t just the nettles that have rendered my stride tentative.

The corrugated iron roof is shades of brown and orange, thinned and mottled by rust, its ridges highlighted with gold-leaf lichen. Tendrils of ivy have snuck under the roof and cling to the plank walls in draped garlands. I get the feeling that if a passing giant poked a curious finger at one of the surviving walls, the cabane would collapse as easily as if it had been built with playing cards.

Inside, it’s dark; broken planks, their tips dipped in moss, are propped together, trussed and strangled by resident ivy. I wade into the sea of nettles and weeds. Diamonds of blue sky glint in the roof from where elaborate spider webs hang, like chandeliers. Cracks in the slatted walls let in shards of light like the cutout slits of paper lanterns I made as a child. One such shard seeps brighter and longer than the rest. My eyes follow its beam to the darkest recess of the hideout. No dismembered victim, but there, resting on the rung of a ladder is the fugitive: the spotlight shines on peacock-eyes, swirls of blue purple bleeding into mauve, skull outlined in black, on the canvas of rusty red flickering wings, a butterfly. One of its hind wings has been torn off mid-swirl as if someone has caught it between their thumb and forefinger and pulled. Its antennae twitch.

Kingston to Camino, by Magic

I’ve caught the 17.43 to Waterloo, and am busy on my phone editing a last minute blip when the train stops at Kingston. A glamorous woman and her son, both laden with shopping, collapse on the seat opposite me, chatting away in that most rolling of languages, Spanish.

Too grainy, I decide … as I convert the image into black and white, a flash of gold whips into vision like the swirl of a matador’s cape.

The son, about sixteen, has a large gold coin.  He shows it to his mother and then with a magician’s seamless slight of hand, he makes it disappear. Her expression is deadpan, even when she notices my gormlessly dropped jaw.

“Do it again … please” I ask. The boy smiles, and the coin reappears only to vanish down the black hole of his palm.

“Entertain us.” His mum says flatly, turning to look out of the window. For one hideous moment I wonder whether she’s asking me to reciprocate, fortunately it’s a short-lived panic.

“I do card tricks too.” He rummages in his pockets.

The pack concertinas between his two hands, up and down and from side to side. I am mesmerized.

“He shuffles all day … drives me mad!” she raises an eyebrow, battling the twitch of a smile that might expose her pride.

The boy shows me the pack, now cupped in his left hand. The five of clubs is on top. He strokes it as he would a dog, and I double take for there is no mistaking the red … the top card is now the ten of hearts. Wow. There should be a tah –dah fanfare. But not a bit of it, my fellow passengers remain resolutely glued to their newspapers or gadgets; even the man sardined next to me stares indifferently ahead. All frightfully British.

“So how long have you been a magician?” I ask.

“Bout six months.”

“It must impress your friends?”

“Nah not really, they do card tricks too … I’ve got nerdy friends…”

“But I’m not nerdy, no not at all,” he says fanning out the cards into a red, black, yellow and blue peacock’s tail. With a flick of his wrist he snaps them closed. When he fans them again, the tail is snow white.

“Go on … take a look, they’re just a normal pack of cards,” he’s registered the disbelief on my face, and pushes the deck into my hands. And it’s true they look and feel like an ordinary pack of cards, except they are shiny new.

“I’ve been to two magic shows in the past week” his mother sighs  “But at least it keeps him off the computer  … and … he’s far less introverted, the cards even help him to pull girls!”

“Uh … no they don’t …  well, not that many, praps two every couple of months.”

“Sounds impressive to me,” I say.

“Yeah they give me their phone numbers… I had a really nice conversation with one. And you can get like packs of cards that include blank ones… some guys, they write their numbers on them and then use them as part of a trick to impress girls.” More concertinaing …”But I haven’t done that.” He says quickly.

We talk about Spain; glamorous mother is from the Basque region. I’m eulogizing about the little of Spain I have seen, Madrid and Barcelona when they interrupt me in uncanny unison,

“Do you enjoy walking?”

“Yes very much!”

“There’s only one way to really get to know Spain,” the mother’s accent is thickening with passion “ you must walk the Camino!”

“The Camino?”

“Si. The Camino de Santiago de Compostela, St James Way … the pilgrim walk.”

“It’s 790 km! It takes you up and down mountains, through really cool villages,” says the boy (no trace of an accent), still shuffling like a juggler.

“But you don’t have to do all of it at once, you can do sections – like us.”

“Yes he did it with us, when he was fourteen, 27 km a day for a week.” She’s still suppressing her bubbling pride.

“I cried the first day,” says the magician with disarming honesty “it was tough”.

“He did it for charity.” This time her pride is evident.

The floodgates weaken and I bombard them with questions. Their enthusiasm is so virulently contagious. Each answer fuels my increasing excitement. I learn that not all walkers are religious but that it is a wholly spiritual journey; that the camaraderie is life enhancing, that the walk ekes out every last ounce of your strength and stamina

“At the end, you don’t recognize the person you have become,” says Francisca (we’ve introduced ourselves); that you stay in albergues of varying standards, usually 30 to a room,

“Some have 5 star facilities, all for 15 euros”

“Yeah but Mum, what about that barn that had cockroaches running around all night?” says Rafael with a grimace.

“Ah ok, but that was just one bad experience” Francisca shrugs her shoulders dismissively.

“We haven’t said about the food!” the cockroaches have clearly been forgotten. “Chorizo became my drug … better than any beer, or anything.” He says, eyes drooling.

Francisca and I exchange email addresses as the train pulls in to Waterloo.

“Don’t forget to watch The Way!” is their last instruction before disappearing into the swarm of commuters, a bit like the vanishing gold coin.

I had been planning on cycling London to Paris for charity but became disillusioned when I realised how little of the money raised would actually go to the charity. My mind was spinning: could walking the Camino could be an alternative? Without doubt it was one of those ‘signpost’ encounters, too surreally real to be ignored. The magician left me spellbound with his talent, a cool superstar, though not too cool to kiss his mum in public. Mind you, Francisca was pretty cool herself.

A little research has demonstrated my skyscraper ignorance (again): it seems that there are very few people who haven’t heard of walking the Camino.  Needless to say, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on Emilio Estevez’s The Way. It transfixed me with its storyline, captivating performances and cinematography. And in spite of unearthing less romantic Camino tales (for example, that it usually rains everyday), I’m thinking that walking the Camino could be in the cards for 2013.

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Hot Air, Cat Out, Caught Out …

Believe me, it is no easy feat to trick a massively pawed, impressively clawed 20-kilo cat into his travel basket for a routine visit to the vet. Covert Secret Service operations are required: the cat flap has to be noiselessly, invisibly locked and all doors within the house must be surreptitiously closed to eliminate a skilled dash for potentially obscure hiding places etc. The agent must adopt a casual, nonchalant disposition whilst attending these precautionary procedures, for what this cat lacks in brain cells he has in abundant intuition.  And Columbus is a cartoon circus performer, limbo dancer extraordinaire when it comes to squeezing his bulk into a space with the dimensions of a mouse hole. Hence his belly.

It was when the front door slammed behind us that I realised my self-congratulatory pat on the back (Gibbon arms – my fingertips reach my knees when standing) had been a tad premature: the car was entombed in ice. Columbus is barely contained by his wicker basket; the latch is so rudimentary that he would just need to lean one shoulder against it to make a successful bid for freedom. Time was of the essence; I hugged the yowling prisoner to my chest tightly enough to have left imprints on my skin, aware that his every sinew was straining against each woven wicker strand, and tried to unlock the car. But the doors were frostily sealed. I ignored passing neighbours and contorted my body and basket so that I was able to blow warm air over the lock. After several long puffs it defrosted, and I could deposit His Furriness on to the backseat and retrieve my scraper for the windscreen.

“It’s all very aesthetic looking, but … uh do you think you could give me a hand getting him out of there?’ James enquired. The basket door had been open for a good several minutes and embarrassingly I had been rooted to the spot marvelling at the green eyes peering out from the furry swathes.

“Of course” I said, mortified that I should appear so inane in front of my lovely vet.

“C’mon Columbus, out you come” But the cat had developed new limpet powers, and was not budging.

“So, do you have nice plans for Christmas? Your brood must be getting very excited?” I asked feebly, whilst unceremoniously tipping and yanking the cat out on to the table. James scooped him up

“It’s like lifting a half-cat-child, very cuddly.”

“Yup, my Mum is in denial about his weight, that’s why she got me to bring him.”

“Well let’s get him on the scales …  Is he active? Goodness! He’s lost 30g. Yes, they’re excited about Christmas … but I’ve … oh what’s this?  … I’ve long held the theory that it’s in the wrong month …”

I smelt familiarity. At last. Could I be in the presence of a fellow bah-humbug-er?

“Wrong month?”

“Yeah, my flip-flops are still in the hallway Hmm just going to put some of this grit under the camera [he’d been combing through C’s fur], Christmas shouldn’t be at solstice time, it should be at least a month later when we’re in the thick of winter… er yes this is flea grit, have you got any flea treatment at home? Yes, a month later when everyone is really miserable.”

“Well it’s the whole hypocrisy that gets me” I join in, having mounted my 18-hand hobby horse, “It was the same with the Jubilee, and with the Olympics, everyone is suddenly terribly nice to each other, community spirit is oozing and then as soon as it’s over people begin bitching again, retreating into their unsmiling selves” my horse is now accelerating from canter into a full Frankel gallop. “We’ve become such an unpleasant, hypocritical society.”

“So when you asked me if I had any nice Christmas plans, you were just making chit chat rather than it being a genuine question?” he laughed, pinpointing my own hypocrisy with his surgical precision.

Before the R.S.P.C.A are sent round, I’d better admit to exaggerating Columbus’s weight by approx 11 kilos.

Columbus the Maine Coon.

Columbus the Maine Coon.

Check out the paw...

Check out the paw…

 

More paws for thought.

More paws for thought.

 

The basket.

The basket.

 

Prised from his basket.

Prised from his basket.

 

Eye know.

Eye know.

At work.

At work.

 

Columbus and Harvey seeing eye to eye.

Columbus and Harvey seeing eye to eye.

Brush With Speed

A Retiro Park peacock became the subject for my recent, and first foray into acrylics. I was extravagant with the amount of paint I lavished on the canvas; I so wanted to replicate the luxurious textures of oil. The acrylics were buttery smooth, it was like making coffee without being able to smell or taste the ground beans, or baking a loaf without that 1000000-calorie bread smell that has sealed the deal on many a property. But it is caffeine loaded, the speed with which you have to cover the canvas in order to keep up with its Bolt-Farrah drying properties makes acrylic painting a sport. I need to get into training!

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Retiro Park peacock in acrylic.

Harvey in oil.

Harvey in oil.

A Place in Time

The hefty wrench which finally prised open the bottom drawer of my cousin’s kitchen dresser sent me toppling. In the split second of failing to remain upright, I caught glimpse of a neatly folded bundle of colourful woven fabric, its dazzling familiarity was blinding. Maybe it was the engulfing and ghostly force of childhood memories that threw me backwards. I certainly hadn’t expected to find these placemats here, or at all; I’m ashamed to admit that I’d long forgotten them. I held them to my nose, even the smell was unmistakable; I laid one out flat and traced a faint stain with my finger. They had belonged to my grandmother, cast members of all mealtime productions.

Exactly half of every school holiday was spent with my grandmother and father. What better way to entertain or occupy your young granddaughters/daughters than to involve them with the day’s focal point of Lunch? Decisions. What did the vegetables in my grandmother’s garden, or the contents of her larder suggest? Much fervent discussion led by my father, a vegetarian; punctuated with raucous laughter at his own (quite good) jokes. Frugal living did not need to compromise a carefully devised, simple three-course menu.

“We can’t read your writing” was our plaintive protest when the shopping list, written in my grandmother’s sprawling hand, was thrust into our hands, along with the money carefully counted out from her capacious brown leather purse. But off we scampered, down the big hill, to fetch missing ingredients from Langport. Dawdling was weather dependent: sometimes we idled via the river, or stopped off at the library, or squeezed in a visit to the sweet shop that still sold sweets from tall, sugar encrusted jars.

Once back, my sister remained in the kitchen to help my father concoct the starter, a soup perhaps, whilst my grandmother – Pekingese on knee, tipple and/or cigarette in hand – and I luxuriated in cosy chat on the sofa. Even in summer the kitchen always seemed chilly when we swapped over, and it was my turn to assist. I did not possess my seven-year-old sister’s aptitude for cooking and my ineptitude (as he would describe it) would often frustrate my father to within varying degrees of boiling point. But there were times when I managed to identify and prepare the correct herb from the garden, chop vegetables or roll pastry to his specified dimensions; the jokes and laughter would return. And it would be fun. So much so, that I would passionately defend him when my grandmother came in to make the pudding, agitating over the unnecessary mess he’d made of her kitchen.  Pudding prep was true to character and provoked sweet frivolity, whether it was fruit salad or glamorous trifle. Our grandmother would just get on with it, allowing us to participate as much or little as we wanted; always providing the delicious remnants of some bowl for us to squabble over; and delighting us with theatrical, feigned horror at the deliberately exaggerated stories we would tell.

“Don’t forget to lay the table!” Enter The Placemats: no matter how humble our lunch, its simplicity was framed; the table had to be fully laid.

My father was a stickler for table manners. Woe betide us if we spoke with our mouths full, or clinked teeth against a fork, or if our fingers crept too far up the knife handle. Nor was he a fan of small talk.

“What terrible weather!” I once affectedly remarked, acknowledging the rain against the window, and attempting to sound grown-up.

“Explain the terror in rain, Harriet.”

“But it’s raining hard”

“Yes, but is it terrible in its truest sense?”

A weighty dictionary was on hand for all the words that we did not understand.

“Even Suki has a bigger appetite than you.” I said when my sister said she’d had eaten enough one lunchtime. It was true; my grandmother’s small dog was ravenous compared to my slightly fussy eater sister.

“It’s Pavlovian.” Said my father.

I stared hard at the woven orange, yellow, blue, green and brown in my placemat trying to work out the connection between ballet and hunger (I was probably around ten or eleven at the time). Of course the ensuing conversation dispelled my pirouetting images of Anna Pavlova, and introduced Pavlov’s dog and Conditioning. My fingertips smoothed out the fringing on the placemat as I listened…

 

 

Veiled Promise

My snap double take of the layers, lines and colours here, round the corner from Madrid’s Romantic Museum, was so sharp that my neck yelled.

The emphatically bricked up windows, barred windows and shutters seemed striking against the gauzy veil, the grass and leaves – greens that chimed with the promise of renovation (dependent, perhaps, on la crisis).

I get Banksy, but do not understand this kind of graffiti.

 

Madrid’s Front Room: El Parque Del Buen Retiro

Madrid’s Parque Del Buen Retiro threatened to highjack my entire five days in the city. It was a short walk from where I was staying in Calle de Ibiza, and it cast its spell on the first evening, under a grimacing full moon – his bruised face lit up over the Estanque del Retiro.  It was a balmy evening “You’re so lucky, it poured for the whole of last week; the first rain for four months” I must have been told a hundred times, with varying gesticulations of emphasis. Yes, the first week of this month was blessed with lapis skies; the temperature leaping fifteen degrees between 10am and 12pm as Autumn clung to Summer’s retreating rays, wringing them, squeezing the heat from an obliging sun.

A feeling of intense equilibrium rises like heat vapour from the maze of secret paths that branch off the park boulevards (it is possible to get luxuriously lost); and from the more formal focal points – the grand monuments, sculptures, the Estanque, the Palacio de Cristal, the Paterre French garden – that are balanced with the serenity of the secluded Rosaleda, and Los Jardines de Cecilo Rodriguez (The Peacock garden). Who would have thought that Rollerblading and Meditation would make such amicable neighbours? The trees are responsible for this seamless divide; they are magnificent arboreal arbiters.

And, los árboles are also the sun’s leading protagonists in El Retiro: the play of light and shadow is enthrallingly cast, reminiscent of the finest Indonesian shadow theatre. It is no wonder that this green shade is a popular retreat in the suffocating heat of a summer’s evening, making the Retiro in effect, Madrid’s front room. Even on these cooler Autumnal evenings, a buzz descends on the park in time for sunset with madrileños gathering to share their day with friends, to rollerblade, cycle, to sit by the Estanque with a bottle of wine, to walk their dogs, to just enjoy this space, and life.

Please click on an image below for an El Retiro slideshow: